I LOVE NEPAL!!!!

When you travel, some destinations just seem right. Something about the place makes you happy, or at home. Nepal is that way. Nepal is a beautiful country filled with beautiful, smiling people. I am enjoying myself immensely here. Had 2 great paragliding flights yesterday in an amazing settnig. The mountains here are huge, pictures don't describe them.
The motorcycle ride to Delhi was less than fun. Dirty, dusty, a bit scary, uncomfortable, but pretty uneventful. I arrived at a friends house in time for lunch. So I survived the ride.
I will write more soon. With pictures I hope.

Before I sign off I would like to wish everyone the warmest holiday greetings. I wish I was there with you, sitting by a fire, enjoying some great Christmas cheer. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from Nepal.

This is the end my friends...

One week from tomorrow I will be officially done and free for almost 5 weeks. I can't begin to express how badly I need a vacation away from this hillside. It is hard to put my finger on one specific reason, it is a multitude of things. Regardless it will be magical when I finally roll down the hill.

Here is a picture of my 10th grade class taking there exam in Parker Hall

We are right in the middle of exam week, with my last exam on Tuesday. Then a few days of B.S. stuff and the students leave Friday morning. I have the weekend to prepare for my trip. Then a final meeting on Monday and I am gone. Where you ask???? Let me tell you.

Monday afternoon my bike will be loaded with paraglider and my gear for a 5 week trip. First, I ride to Delhi, via Saharanpur. Tuesday I will finish the ride and kick it in Delhi with some buddies. Wednesday the 19th I hop a plane for 2.5 weeks of paragliding in Nepal. Arrive in Katmandu and head the next day to a town called Pokhara. Pokhara is the second largest city in Nepal and the site of one of the best paragliding spots on the globe this time of year. Consistent, good conditions almost everyday. It is also the starting point for the treks of the Annapurna region of Neapl. The backdrop to my daily flights will be the snow clad peaks of the Anapurna Range, numerous 20,000'+ peaks. I am excited to get my knees in the breeze again. It will go a very long way in clearing my head of the cobwebs from 5 months of hard work and relative stagnation from this past semester. I plan on flying and far and/or long as I can everyday. I hope to do some serious flying, I will fill you in as soon as I can. I plan on spending a few days in Katmandu at the end of my trip. Here are a few pics I stole form some guys flicker account. Thanks who ever took these pictures!

Upon my return to India in early January I will pick up my bike from a friends house and ride out into the Thar Desert. The State of Rajasthan is supposed to be a place a mysticism, romance, and beauty. The land of the Arabian Knights (or if it nights?), ancient hilltop forts, camel safaris, colors, sunsets and endless desert. I have heard great things about this place and I am excited to see it. I think the Enfield will be a great way to get around out there in the desert. It will allow me to get off the tourist trail and see some things that not many people get to see.

Hopefully, I return rejuvenated (and in one piece) ready for 4 more months of hard work. I trust that I will.

I Am Thankful!!

This time of the year we are reminded that we have many things in our lives to be thankful for. Truthfully, being thankful on Thanksgiving was a fleeting thought between gorging myself on delicious food. I have never completely realized this until recently, and I feel ashamed for this realization. I think as people of comfort and good fortune (yes, everyone of you has a comfortable and fortunate life) we forget how fortunate and blessed we truly are to live the lives we do. It is easy to forget that much of the world lives with much less comfort and fortune (not just monetary) than we do. I am not pointing fingers, I am as much to blame as anyone else. Until we take ourselves out of our comfort zone can we truly reflect on how good we have it. I self-inflicted a trip outside my comfort zone this past July when I left for India. And I can truly say, in retrospect, that I am lucky to be born Christopher Alan Gehard. This realization is two fold. First, because my life has been wonderful up to this point and I miss many things from my life in the western world. Family, friends, loved ones, the touch of a beautiful loving woman, foods; my list could go on. The band Cinderella said it best "You don't know what ya got till it's gone..." insert cheesy hair metal riff. Second, I have seen everyday how many of the inhabitants of this world live, believe me it is not comfortable from a westerners point of view. While they don't know any different, so to them it is not an especially uncomfortable life. But put a westerner in their place and 98% of the time that person would not be happy. I guess the bottom line is I am thankful for everything I have in my life, and I vow to never take it for granted again.

Now I want to lighten things up a little and tell you what I am thankful for...

Family

I have the best most loving family there is. Parents who have supported me through all of my crazy adventures, schemes and ideas. Brothers, who I look up to for their wonderful and inspiring lives. And everyone else who has touched my life in a loving way.

Friends and loved ones, old and new. I truly have some of the greatest friends in this world. You know who you are. I love you guys, without you this world would be a lonely, boring place. I miss you all!!!

My health, I have enjoyed a life mostly free of bad health (knock on wood)!

This amazing world full of wonder and all the joy it has brought me over the years.

I could continue my list all night but I have bored you long enough. Thanks for listening to me. I love you all. Have a great Thanksgiving, be thankful today, cause you have so much to be thankful for.

I WANT TURKEY!!!

Not much fun, new or interesting been going on lately. We are all just trying to get the semester wrapped up, in less than 4 weeks I will be done for the semester and off on another amazing adventure, you have to stay tuned to find out what that adventure is. Anyway, I will try to squeeze out a half way interesting blog. I don't want to lose my wonderful audience. Without you guys I would be sad! So lets hear some more comments, show me some love!!

Happy Holidays to my friends and family in the U.S. I envy you, do you know that. For many reasons actually, but today I envy you because in 4 days you will be consuming all the delightful culinary treasures that come with the celebration of Thanksgiving. Lucky Dogs!!!! Obviously Thanksgiving is not celebrated in India, however, I work with enough people from the U.S. who might like to partake is a Thanksgiving celebration. Except, I think Turkey is hard if not impossible to come by here in India, I guess chicken will have to do. Speaking of foodstuff I've been missing. As an avid carnivore, 4 months without a morsel of beef leaves one with cravings. Obviously beef is impossible to get in this part of India, cows are sacred and all. However, there is a beef substitute that is fair game in this part of India, water buffalo!!I bought myself 2 kg of buffalo meat yesterday. I proceeded to make myself a pot roast, came out alright, a bit tough but very beef like.

I love to learn new skills that can benefit me now or later in life. Because this place is boring and I have lots of free time on my hands I have been engaging in many things that I have always wanted to do or learn. Earlier this semester I learned to throw pottery (thats what they call it). You know put some clay on a wheel, spin it around and make a bowl or something. So far I have made 2 bowls, a cup and a plate. They were fired a few weeks ago, they are ugly as hell but they are mine. They looked a lot better unglazed, the glazing is the hard part.

I also just recently started doing origami. Rather than sit at my desk and surf the Internet while bored at night I needed a hobby that engaged my mind and hands. I have always thought it was so cool when someone whipped out a piece of paper and folded it into a swan or something, so I got a book form the library and started it up. I can now make a box with a lid, a butterfly, a leaf and a flower from memory, and I almost have perfected the butterfly ring. I even made a nice decorative box for a friends b-day present. Her husband said no gifts, but they bought me something nice for my b-day so I have to break the rules. How nice and practical is that, a little box with a butterfly on it. Sweet huh? I am going to make a good wife someday ;) Anyway, here are a few of my creations.

One place I feel my new skill will be very appreciated is in the small villages around here. When you visit a village the children are absolutely enthralled by these different looking people. Depending on their age they might have never even seen a white dude before. I like giving them something, they have so little so even a balloon gives them a happiness that is so pure and true, it is hard to explain. You just have to see their eyes, then you would know what I am talking about. But this new found skill gives me the ability to create something right in front of them that they will love and appreciate. I can't wait to see their reactions as I create a butterfly, or flower for them.

Hope everyone is well!!! Eat some turkey for me.

Diwali - Festival of Light (ers)

Diwali is a festival of great importance in India. It could be compared to Christmas in the western world; and like Christmas it holds religious, cultural and social importance. In a general sense Diwali is a celebration of good over evil and light over darkness. Also, Diwali is a celebration to give thanks for an abundant autumn harvest and the gracious nature of various gods and goddesses. It started in the North Indian kingdom of Avadha to celebrate the last day of Lord Rama's long exile of fourteen years. As the citizens of Ayodhya eagerly awaited their beloved prince's return, they lit thousands of lamps to guide his flying vimana to their city. The tradition of lighting lamps continues and nearly every resident of our hillside town have beautiful clay oil lamps lit in front of their homes and businesses. It gives the town a beautiful warm glow.
Diwali also celebrates the gracious nature of the three goddesses, Lakshmi, Kali and Saraswati. Dhanteras (two days before Diwali) is dedicated to Lakshmi, whose blessings are essential for a prosperous, fruitful and peaceful life. Kali-Chudash (the day before Diwali) is dedicated to Maha Kali whose strength we seek to maintain the wealth we have. Strength, physical, mental and spiritual, is essential for all of us to lead a happy life. Diwali itself is dedicated to goddess Saraswati. Knowledge is the ultimate wealth, for it cannot be stolen from you; it is also the ultimate strength, for it often defeats brute force.

My boys back home are going to love this! Diwali is also a festival of gambling. On Diwali many men gamble. The reasons for this are as important religiously as they are socially. It is said that in playing cards, the goddess of wealth smiles upon the player and ensures her goodwill. A popular saying states that one who does not gamble on this day will be reborn as a donkey in his next birth. Sounds like a good enough reason to me to play a little hold em'.

We went out for the smaller of the Diwali celebrations last night and the town was hopping. Some fireworks, but it was just a warm up for tonight. They say the fireworks display that can be witnessed on the larger of the Diwali celebrations rivals anything you see in the states. Our vantage point on top of the hillside gives us a view of many kilometers around, I look forward to the show. I bought a few fireworks myself, my favorite are those snapper things you throw on the ground and they make a little bang. Except they are not those little wimpy ones like back home. You can buy them here as large as a golf ball. They make a HUGE bang, but they also make you a bit nervous carrying them around in your hand.

No grand festival is complete without fireworks and some drunken debauchery, I expect nothing less from tonight's festivities. Tonight is the big night, we're going into town to check it out till about 8ish then going up to a big party in Sister’s Bazaar, should be fun. Full report with pictures by the end of the weekend.

Part Two-

Not much new to report. I went into town a tad late and most people were at home with their families doing the Puja. So I decided to go see the fireworks show that the senoirs were doing at the dorms. All I have to say is that I am glad I had my riding goggles. It was the craziest redneck fireworks display I have ever seen. It was mayhem, we are lucky that no one got their eyes put out. There was rockets shooting into the crowd, multi-shot mortar round boxes falling over on their sides and shooting into the crowd. All this and no one was wearing saftey goggles. They had 20,000 rupees worth of fireworks, over $500. You can imagine how many fireworks that will buy in India. Boxes upon boxes.

Also, I forgot to bring my camera. So no pictures. I know blog posts are boring without pictures. I will do better next time.

Experiencing Himalayan Life

So I am back from my week long grade 9 activity week. Have you ever wondered what it is like to spend an entire week camping with 12, 14 year old high school freshman in a freshly harvested corn field in a small Himalayan village? Well if you have read on.

Our adventure began with a 12 km road hike (uphill most of the way) to the wonderful little village of Takarna. Takarna is situated on the flanks of a small valley created by a spring fed creek that is a tributary of the Aglar River 500 meters below. The hillsides surrounding Takarna are surrounded by terraced farm fields that give the landscape an interestingly textured look. It reminds me of a topographic map,the kind with the lines that tell elevation. Upon arriving in Takarna we are given our choice of any freshly harvested and plowed terrace in the center of the village. Makes for a bit of a dusty and dirty week but a very nice little camping spot. The majority of these students have very limited if any camping experience and it was interesting to see them go throughout the struggles every novice camper experiences, overall they did extremely well.

For me some of the highlights of the week were the time we spend in the village interacting with the villagers, and helping them out with their daily chores. I think I could become a Himalayan farmer. It intrigues and impresses me to no end how these people can squeeze a living out of this relatively small chunk of land on the side of a mountain in the Himalaya. They do most everything for themselves. They grow almost all of their own food, corn, beans, dal, some fruit, peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, you name it. They have cows and buffalo for milk. Their own mills to grind grain into flour.

We milked water buffalo, plowed the fields the old fashioned way with 2 cows and a homemade plow, beat dal pods with a big stick to release the bean; I was a Himalayan farmer!!!! I have always loved working with the earth, sun and elements to create and harvest amazing bounties of vegetables, fruit, and other edible goodies. I aspire to someday grow or raise the majority of the food me and my family consume. People have been doing it since the beginning of the human race, and I think there is not many things more fulfilling than eating fresh food you have grown yourself. This was the part of the weekend that I enjoyed the most.

Some of my students and I riding on top of a jeep back to camp along one of those crazy Indian roads. What you can't see is the thousand foot drop off to our left. Only in India!!!!

Evening campfire pow-wow

Activity Week

This Sunday the entire Woodstock School will be heading out all over India to participate in Activity Week. Groups will be going to places like Chennai, Dahramsala, Delhi, Corbet Tiger Reserve and other wonderful places throughout India. I have been assigned to chaperon the 9th grade activity which is essentially a week long visit to a village in the Aglar Valley directly to the north or here. We will be camping close to the village and participating in service projects such as teaching primary school children, giving presentations on safe water usage and helping to eradicate a noxious invasive plant species called Kahli Ghas. While this is not the culturally fulfilling trip that a visit to Dahramsala or Arga might be it will be nice to spend more time with the wonderful hill folk that inhabit these mountains. We will be camping in a clearing near the village for the entire week. I find something very cleansing and rejuvenating about sleeping out under the stars like our ancestors have done for centuries. It will also be nice to have a whole different set of responsibilities than I do during the normal school week. I am in my element in the outdoors, it is truly where I belong. So team-leading a trip like this is no problem, especially considering I have two very capable partners on this adventure. Dale Seefelt is the Hindi teacher here at Woodstock and has lived in India most of his life so he knows the cultures and how the Indian people think. Jackie Pye is a great person to have along as well cause she is a born leader and strong personality, when she speaks people listen. Also, Jackie has tons of experience in the outdoors and leading camp type group activities. I think it will be a wonderful experience for student and chaperon alike. Stay tuned, I will be back in a week with a full report.

New Digs, Monkeys, and the Winterline

Not much new and exciting to report, at least nothing to rival my previous post about my amazing trip. Hope it wasn't too long and drawn out, I could have written for hours about it.

Well I have finally escape the jail cell of a room I was living in and moved on up. I now live in my own, newly renovated SINGLE apartment. It is a drastic improvement, I love it! Lots of wood/stone work and tons more character than the last place. It has a bukari too (woodstove)!! Here are some pics, please excuse the mess. I just hired an ayiah (maid, kinda) she starts Tuesday. All in all the place is really nice I am enjoying myself in my new place.

Outside: Mine is the furthest away, in the shade.

Inside: From the front door looking into the loft desk area.Inside: Standing up in the desk area, Bedroom, and down into living room and kitchen.

Here is a shot of one of the Langur Monkeys that cruise through all the time, aren't they cute? These are the nice monkeys; the Rhesus Monkeys suck, they even look mean and ornery. I don't have any pics of those. They don't deserve to be blogged anyway, little bastards.

This last pic is of a atmospheric phenomenon called the Winterline. It is a thermal inversion in the valley that holds the dust, pollution and crud of the valley down below the level of the mountains surrounding. Because we are above the level of the inversion we look down onto it. This creates a false horizon which the sun sets behind. So for most of the winter we do not see the sun set behind the actual horizon line. Kinda weird, huh? It makes for really neat, drawn out, sky illuminating sunsets. It just started up a week or so ago, a month earlier than it normally starts so the locals have been saying. Also, it has been rising (getting higher) every year. Not exactly sure the environmental implications of this but lets blame it on global warming, call Al Gore!!!!!! The pic isn't the greatest but the winterline is that straight line that looks like a false horizon, you might have to squint.

This pic is actually taken from my new porch. I will try to get a better pic and post it.

Har-Ki-Dun Trip Report

Sorry it has taken me so long to write this, there are just not enough hours in my day right now.

During the week before quarter break my busy schedule and indecision left me without a definite destination for my 4 day sojourn. For some reason I was strangely comfortable with this fact, I knew that whatever I chose would be a wonderful adventure and well needed break form here. Wednesday I was discussing possible options with one of my housemates and he mentioned Har-Ki-Dun (HKD from now on) a name I had heard many times as one of the great treks in this region of the Garwahli Himalaya. He said it would be hard to get done in 4 days but someone like me could do it, that was all the challenge I needed.

HKD is about 190 km from Mussoorie, so I decided to leave Friday directly after our lunch around 1:30. I ate lunch, went to the bank and as I was ascending the stair form the basement I heard a familiar noise, I noise I had grown to dislike. This noise was the pounding rain. That is right, the rains returned just in time for my early escape from Mussoorie. And we are not talking about a minor drizzle, a deluge!! It was raining harder than it had rained at any time during the last 2 months of monsoon, oh yea there were some nice sized hail as well. Was this a sign? Was my trip doomed to bad luck and eventual failure? Once the rains subsided and the sun cleared nothing was stopping me, I jumped on my bike and off I roared. From the time I left town the weather was nothing but perfect, beautiful sunshine dried the roads in no time. The 3 hour ride to Naugon along the holy Yamuna River was breathtaking, as the clear blue water of the Yamuna snaked downstream at the bottom of an amazing canyon I motored upstream high on the canyon walls. I love riding in these hills on the Enfield. It is an adventure in itself.

Sleepy town of Naugon

Day 2: Day 2 broke with evidence of a slight drizzle, my 100 rup ($2.50) hotel room in Naugon was spartan but did the job. I loaded up the bike about 8 am grabbed a chai and off I went. Crossing the Yamuna I climbed up a small tributary to a small, insignificant town called Purola. The gods threatened rain the whole way, thankfully it only drizzled lightly. From Purola the road climbed to a minor pass into another valley. This was my favorite part of the ride. The road weaved through the most beautiful pine forest I have ever seen. The forest, new road surface and twisty road made for the most spectacular ride. Basically all this while surrounded with huge, beautiful mountains. The road did not stay good for long though. About 12km from my destination of Sankri it started to deteriorate badly, lots of mud holes, creek crossings and huge potholes. Just before Sankri I came to a huge nasty creek crossing, one that I thought I might not be able to get back out of in a few days. The only problem was I thought this AFTER I crossed, so no crying about it now.

Crazy Creek Crossing

Upon arriving in Sankri I was like a traveling freak show. One thing about being a whitey in India is you are always stared at. Not subtle stares from across the road, but stand 5 feet away from you and stare like you have an arm growing out of your head. This is especially true in smaller, rural out of the way places. Anyway, I made my way to the rest house where there were luckily a few hinglish (mix between Hindi and English) speakers. Told a few kids I needed to reach HKD and be back in Sankri in 3 days and they just laughed at me. They said impossible you must have 5 days to do the trek. You see the trek is 84 km (52 miles) long for the most part uphill. I was getting a bit upset, I came all this way and now they say I can't do it in 3 days. Bullshit, I told them to find me someone who will take me in 3 days. Along comes Raju, a fit looking guy about my age who guides trips in the area, he speaks decent English which is a plus. He says it will be tough but we can do it in 3 days. We settle on a price and off we go. Raju will carry most of our minimum gear, and I will carry some water, my camera, and jackets. We leave Sankri at 1:00 pm, our destination Gangar 24 km(15mi.) upstream. I am elated, it only take a few km with Raju to realize I made the right decision. He seems solid, I have a good feeling about things.

The trek to Gangar takes us along an old road bed to Taluka, from Taluka we leave the road and hike along the Supin River. One of the most beautiful stretches of river I have seen in a while. It is your normal hiking with a few sketchy bridges and minor landslide crossings. As twilight ensues, my muscles and joints begin to ache and a drizzling rain begins to fall I am elated to see Gangar on the hillside across the river. Gangar is a town that looks as if it is plucked straight from the pages of an old storybook, situated on a glacial terrace above the roaring rapids of the Supin. Gangar is 24 hard kms from the nearest road has no electricity, and is inhabited by Garwhalis who survive by subsistence farming. It is a wonderful place!! We will be staying in Raju's sister cousins, husbands, family house. Did you get that? Interacting with the local Garwahli people is the thing I enjoyed most on this trip. They are a very beuatiful people, they look much less "Indian" or at least the western innterpretation of what as Indian looks like. They look more Turkish, Middle Eastern almost Gypsie looking. We spent most of the night haninging out in one of the three rooms in the house. This same room served as the sitting room, dining room and bedroom for the evening. Here are a few of us enjoying dinner and a few drinks of the local hooch. A "wine" that tastes like watered down moonshine to me. Great people, I was treated like a royal guest.

House in Gargon
Dinner and Drinks

Beautifully Carved Temple in Gargon

Day 3: After a fitful nights rest from sharing a room with 4 other grown adults and a too short bed we awoke to a crystal clear Himalayan morning. After a chai (sweet and milky tea) to jump start the morning, we said our goodbyes and hit the trail. We had 16 mostly uphill km’s to the HKD rest house. Our route would take us through the towns of Seema and Olsa before ascending the ridge up into HKD valley. We reached Seema after an easy 5km. We stopped in Seema to have breakfast of chai and aloo paranthas (potato stuffed flatbread). It was nice to warm myself around a fire of locals and feel welcome. After our lunch paranthas were packed we hit the trail. At Seema the trail crosses the river and climbs the ridge in full sun. The sun was nice but it got hot really quick.

I really don’t think I enjoy the act of hiking. For me it is a means to an end. I realize to get away from the teaming masses and out into that beautiful life giving wilderness you have to put one foot in front of the other and got on down that trail. But I find it rather dull truthfully. I guess that comes from years of engaging in outdoor pursuits that are more adrenaline inducing. This is not to say I don’t enjoy good conversation with a friend as we amble down the trail or sitting on a ridge enjoying lunch and an amazing view. I just find the act of hiking rather boring, anyway, sorry for that digression.

One could see the trail as it made its way sharply up the ridge and disappeared around the corner into HKD valley. It can be a bit torturous to be able to see the steeply ascending path and know that you must follow that same route. Up we climbed until a point on the trail where we rounded a corner and got our first view up the length of HKD valley, all I can say is it was breathtaking.

Har-Ki-Dun Valley: The rest house is just on the other side of that last patch

of pine trees way up valley

The view was of beautiful meadows and pine stands and finally our destination at the head of the valley. We traversed the ridge climbing up and down across the meadows until we reached the head of the valley at 11,000+’. By the time we reached the rest house the exertion and altitude were beginning to take an effect on me. I was whooped!!! However, the scenery was truly inspiring. Surrounded on 3 sides by 20,000+ feet snowcapped Himalayan peaks in a meadow studded with huge granite boulders, is a sight that will revive the weariest traveler. The most prominent peaks of the valley are Swargarohini I &II. It is a believed that the Pandava brothers of the epic Mahabharata ascended to heaven through Swargarohini (in Hindi, swarg means heaven, and arohini is derived from the word arohan, which means to climb). After taking numerous pictures we spent some time talking to a few other trekkers from North America that were in the valley to do some small scale mountaineering. It was at this point I had a decision to make, spend the night in this beautiful and inspiring setting and endure a 42 km hike out the following day. Or descend and spend the night in either Seema or Gargon and only have a 24 km hike out the next day. I enjoyed myself so much in Gargon the night before I thought it would be nice to spend more time with the locals Garwahlis of this region. So we left the rest house and headed down valley. I stole as many parting glances of the beautiful mountains as I could steal. The hike out although downhill was tiring. Dehydration, altitude, sun exposure and pure exertion have done a great job in sapping my energy by the end of the day. By the time we made it back to Gargon after almost 10 hours and 32 km of hiking I was completely exhausted. I collapsed on the porch and relaxed for an hour.

This evening activities were much more subdued than the previous nights. I didn’t feel like drinking so we just hung out and talked. The Garwahlis have a hard time pronouncing the Ch of my name so I was given a new name for the rest of the trip. Instead of Chris my new Supin Valley name is now Sudhish. They said it is a good name for me. All Indian names have meaning so when I got home I looked it up, it means “lord of excellent intellect” I like it!!!!!!!!!! This evening I was adopted by my host family in Gargon, they wanted me to stay a while. If I could have I would have, they are wonderful people. They were especially interested in why I wasn’t married yet. You see, Indains get married rather young and if you are not married by a certain age there is something wrong. They were very concerned for me. When they asked why I told them I haven’t found the right one yet, at this point I got my first offer to marry one of their daughters. I told them my girlfriend back home wouldn’t like that too much. I spent the night sleeping on the porch in the cool, crisp mountain air and it was marvelous. My hosts could not believe I wanted to sleep out in the cold but I told them I loved sleeping out under the stars and the moon. Best night of sleep on the whole trip.

Our 24 km hike out the next day was reasonably easy and uneventful. Needless to say I was glad as we strolled in to Sankri, the place where we started this adventure 84km and 49 hours ago. I was craving fruit juice as we walked into town, but there was not a drop to be found. No soda , nothing. I had to settle for a rehydration drink mix called glucon-d. Not very tasty, but probably exactly what I needed. After this I had to settle my second craving , PROTIEN, nothing a 3 egg bun omelet couldn’t satisfy. After this we grabbed the bike and headed to Raju’s house. As we parked the bike a noticed a man holding an ax type implement and leading a goat by the horn. Hmmmmm, interesting!! I asked Raju, “he is about to kill that goat isn’t he?” Yes was the reply. I had to watch. The goat seemed very calm, as if it had accepted it’s fate. The goat stood there as the man shaved a little hair off the back of his neck, next thing you know, WHACK!!! Off with the goats head. I have never witnessed a beheading before, it is rather strange. Especially when the separated body parts continue to move. Eyes blink, ears twitch, legs kick, it is all a little surreal. Needless to say, we ate mutton for dinner.
The rest of the afternoon/evening was spent at Raju’s family compound in the village sitting on the porch, drinking a decent scotch his friend brought in from Delhi and eating organic cucumbers out of the garden.

The porch in Sankri

Oh yea, the cold bucket shower was divine as well, made me feel like a new man. Spending time with Raju’s family was great. His 3 kids adored me. They couldn’t get enough of this crazy white man. I spent a lot of the evening helping his eldest son and sister practice their English reading and speaking skills. They welcomed me like one of the family, it was great.

Raju's children in the family kitchen, that's right! The stove is on left.

The entire trip from the time I left Mussoorie was magical!! From riding my bike along the crazy Indian roads, to the intense natural beauty of the inner Himalayan Mountains. However, the things about this trip that touched me deepest and that will leave the biggest impression on my soul is the time I spent with the amazing, yet simple Garwhali people from this region of the Himalayas. Many people who trek this valley do not take the time to interact with the inhabitants who have lived here for generations. Their lives are incredibly simple from a modern, “civilized” point of view. However, this simplicity allows them to live a life most people in the “civilized” world could never even imagine. Their lives are not marred by worries of deadlines, traffic, 401k, crime, stock portfolios, fashion, and any of the frivolous things that worry us on a day to day basis. Their concerns are directly related to the basics of LIFE; food, shelter, clothing, love, companionship, family. That is what is most important to them. Some would say their life is not full because they lack the luxuries and amenities that the inhabitants of the civilized world covet. I on the other hand feel their lives are more pure, full and meaningful because they worry not of these things. They know there is more to life than fancy cars and flat screen TVs. It takes many of us the majority of our lives to come to this realization.

Thank you for listening to the rambling about my wonderful trip. Hopefully someday we can share experiences such as this together; I look forward to sharing it with you.

Pictures from the heart of Har-Ki-Dun

What a Wonderful Adventure

Well I am home safe and sound from another amazing adventure. This one took me deep into the heart of the Himalaya to a place called Har-Ki-Dun (literal translation; Har=Shiva Dun= Valley thus the name Valley of the Gods). It is going to take me a few days to digest all of the wonderful sights, experiences, and memories this past weekend has brought into my life. This area of the Himalayas is truly magical, as if taken from a storybook written many years ago. I can't wait to share it with you all. It is interesting how a trip like this can leave you with as much sadness and loss than joy. The local Garwhali people I spent time with this weekend are some of the most beautiful, wonderful, pure hearted poeple I have come across in my travels. When I encounter wonderful people and places like I have on this trip it saddens me to think that I may never see them again. I have experienced this many times in my travels, and it always leaves me a bit melancholy. Please stay tuned for a complete trip write up in the coming days.

Here is a small teaser photo from the top of Har-Ki-Dun Valley.

Off to Har-Ki-Dun... Valley of the Gods

So I have upped the ante a bit, instead of Yamnotri I am headed to a place called Har-Ki-Dun. One of the most incredible treks in the Indian Himalaya, or at least so I am told. I have read much about this place in my research of India, talk to many people, and just have THAT feeling this is a place I need to see. So I am going to see it. Wish me luck.

I Am a Flying Baba

So this weekend I loaded up the bike with paraglider, camping gear, and myself and headed down to DehraDun to do a little paragliding. I have been in email contact with some pilots from Delhi for the past 5 months or so, this weekend I finally got to meet them and go paragliding. They call themselves the Flying Babas, what a great group of guys they are. They picked me up in Dehradun and welcomed me into their group like they knew me for years. After that it was off to the hill. The site is called Hangfire, it got this name because the landing zone is an Indian Army firing range. They shoot missiles and mortars across the river towards the ridge. Scary I know!!! Luckily they were not firing this weekend, but scars from years of use can be seen all over the mountain. The flying conditions on Saturday were not good. No one could sustain much more then a 20 minute flight. But that is OK, it was just nice to have my knees in the breeze. Got 2 flights, great launches and landings. That is all that matter.

Saturday night we camped at Merlins family land on the Sang River. Swimming in the river, drinks, a bonfire and good company made for a great evening. Might end up spending my quarter break heading further up into the mountains with them to paraglide some more this coming weekend.

Here's the bike loaded down on a beautiful Saturday morning, ready to head down.

Here are those pics I promised...Me just after launch on a beautiful afternoon flight

Some of the Flying Babas, minus me and Merlin

Me feeding the cows chipatis (flat bread) Sunday morning at the camp. In my hand is a glass of milk from those same cows.

Me waiting for the bus out on Sunday. Yea, so I am a little hung over, whats it to ya?

Fair Weather Holiday and Yamuna Bridge

Today the powers that be decided to give the weary students and teachers of Woodstock School what they call in India a "fair weather" holiday. Not exactly sure where the name comes from but I guess now that the monsoon is ending I guess the weather is getting nicer. Whatever, all I know is I had a day off from school, not conducive to getting through the curriculum but well needed and appreciated none the less. I used this opportunity to jump on the Enfield and take a cruise. My destination; the holy Yamuna River 50km to the east of Musoorrie. The road snaked steeply down the mountain the whole time. The road surface ranged from butter smooth to filling rattling washout and potholes. The road was literally blasted out of the mountainside, so a few potholes and gravelly sections can be overlooked.

Me and my trusty stead at my final destination, Yamuna Bridge

Pretty sweet looking bike, huh? I will get some better close ups of it soon.

The Yamuna is the second holiest river in India after the Ganges. River Yamuna is revered by millions of Hindus as the blue-coloured (nila-varna) Goddess Yamuna. According to legends, she is the daughter of the Sun God and the twin-sister of Yama, the Hindu God of death. The Goddess is believed to have come down from the heavens to sanctify the world. Once at the river, it was impossible to fight the call of the clean, cool glacier fed waters of the holy Yamuna. So I joined the 15 or so water buffalo that where cooling off in the mid-day heat and jumped in. The water while cool at first was absolutely perfect temperature once you got used to it. The temperature down in the valley is about 15-20 degrees warmer than up in Mussoorie due to the 4000' of elevation difference.

A local kid that is obviously comfortable around 1500 pound animals. After I took this shot he jumped up on the buffalos back and dove off.

This is the same way I will be driving next weekend when I ride out to the source of this holy river in Yamnotri, many miles upstream. Next weekend is fall break so I am going to do a little ride, visit some temples and hike up into the heart of this amazing mountain range.

Stay tuned.

Why Does This Tree Make Me Happy?

The ferns never lie, browning ferns equal the end of monsoon.

Have Bike, Will Travel

That's right, I got a bike!!!! 81 Royal Enfield Bullet. Kinda old I know, but I figured it has been running this long so I thought I would give it a go. Not only that is was only 18,000 rupees!!About $450, not bad huh?

My buddy Dilip rides a Royal Enfield so I asked him if he might know where to find a nice used one. His mechanic Kalu just so happens to fix up old Enfields and sells them. So I went down to Dehra Dun today to look at a few. A few turned into one but the price was right so I made a deal. Dilip rode the bike and insisted Kalu give it a tune up before I rode off with it. So for 1000 rups more I got a complete tune up. My concern was that they would not get it done before dark, I did not want to ride the hour back up the crazy road from hell in the dark on a new to me motorcycle. They insisted no problem, I would be out of there by 5:00. Well I guess they were on India time cause I rode out at 6:45, it was dark as can be. Not only was it dark but it was rush hour in Dehra Dun talk about crazy drives, it was nuts. I got out unscathed, almost. An auto rickshaw ran over my toes, surprised me more than it hurt, it was kinda funny actually. As I was about to ride up the mountain another motorcyclist rode up beside me to ask if I was going to Mussoorie, of course I said yes. We stopped for a minute exchanged names and then took off up the mountain. It was pretty sketchy, but would have been 10 times worse without my buddy. Yes Katie! Yes Mother! I will be very careful, I promise ;) Better pics of bike to come.

My Indian pit crew, they did a ton of work on the bike in a few hours.

This kid is affectionately known as Robert. Must be 12 but he ripped apart the rear wheel on the bike changed the brakes, greased and installed new bearning like a pro.

Time for Silent Reflection

I have always wanted to learn to meditate, the ability to focus your thoughts on some worthy goal or purpose seems very appealing. Since I was a child my mind has raced a million miles a second; mental noise, thoughts, feelings, intuitions, worries all swirling around in one jumbled mess. Don't get me wrong, it has served me well and got me successfully to this point in my life. Needless to say, I have no serious complaints. But to be able to block out the mental noise and focus my thoughts towards one goal is a skill I would love to obtain. Like juggling, I feel like I will never get there. But guess what, I learned to juggle, I think I can learn to successfully meditate. Little did I know I have been meditating for many years, just a different kind of meditation. Meditation is when your mind is focused completely on one thing, from this very deep thinking we enter into an intuitive state of thought. While kayaking a class V river or barreling downhill at 35 mph on a mountain bike the only way to survive is to think intuitively.

I want to experience this is my everyday life. When thinking stops and intuitive experience takes over, this is meditation. These moments are where the deepest moments of revelation and intuition are born, and we reveal our real self. It is a slow process but I am determined to get there. With all the things in my life, both good and bad, if I can center and focus my thoughts I feel it will make me a better, happier person. Wish me luck!

My place for silent reflection, on the cliffs above Woodstock School (self-portrait, thanks tripod!)

Wonderful Weekend - Freedom in the Hills 2.0 and Top Tibba Hike

It was a wonderful weekend in the Indian Himalaya. Monsoon is slowly losing its grip!!! Ferns are turning brown, much more sunlight, and clearer mornings/evenings. It's not over yet but that light at the end of the tunnel is getting closer, another couple of weeks.

Saturday, my friend Steve could see I needed to get out of town so he lent me his scooter for a couple of hours and I took off into the hills. (thanks Steve) It makes me so happy to be out exploring these amazing mountains and the villages that seem to grow from the mountainside. I can't wait to get my own motorcycle (should be this week) so I can see much more of it. It is almost meditative navigating these crazy mountain roads on a two-wheeled vehicle. Nothing else matters except staying on the road and not getting smooshed by a Tata truck. It is so much fun!!

Sunday about 12 of us took a hike up to one of the peaks in the area called Top Tibba. 3 of us are leading a middle school hike there next Saturday and we needed to scope out the route, the others where just along to enjoy the hike. After a few wrong turns we eventually made it to the top of the ridge which we would follow most of the way to the summit. It was a great hike! We had sun, wind, rain, and thunder. And actually for a spell, all 4 at the same time. It will be an interesting hike with middle school. It is reasonably strenuous, I think there will be plenty of motivational speeches to get some of them to the top, but we'll make it. I'll let you know how it goes.

I feel my life here in India becoming better as I settle in and enjoy the wonderful surroundings. It also helps that monsoon is slowing, monsoon is a serious bummer. I never believed in S.A.D.
(seasonal affective disorder) until I lived in a monsoonal climate. Lack of sun can seriously affect ones mood. Add to it mounds of mold, a damp feel to just about everything and it can seriously get you bummed. I think that within the next two weeks everyones mood on this hillside will improve. There might have to be an end of the monsoon party!!! Hope everyone is well.

The gang enjoying lunch before the final push to the summit. Billowing clouds surround us!

Cross Country Day = OUCH!!!!!!

Have you ever raced a 5k at 7000' of elevation? Me either, until today!!!! And all I can say is that it sucks. Today was the umpteenth annual cross country day at Woodstock School. It was not compulsory for staff to run but I figured to gain a little street cred I would participate. Not only that, it gains point for my "house" the defending champion Merlins (extra credit if you know what a Merlin is, hint it is not a guy who wears a pointy hat and casts spells). Of course I had to run with the big dogs, the 11th and 12th grade boys, lets hear it Ohhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!! Our course was five kilometer from the school gate up to Flag Hill (aprox. 2.5K, 90% uphill) and then past the school gate to a turn around, then back to the school gate 5k in total. Let me tell you it was an asskicker!!!!!! I have only run once since coming here and a few time early this summer to get that beach body on. So I was pretty out of shape. BUT, drum roll please. I still finished 8th overall out of 38 runners. I beat all but 3 students (staff do not get a places only students). The old men (staff) got 5 of the top 8 places. I have not run a foot race like that since junior high school. It hurts, but you know it kind of gives you a natural high pushing your body that hard. But I don't want to repeat it too soon.