Indian Roadtrip - Subtitle: Torture on Two Wheels

Have you ever seen the movie Road Warrior where Mad Max (Mel Gibson) is running for his life from a band of deranged, manics in all sorts of crazy vehicles? Well add to that nostril filling dust, unchecked diesel fumes, ox carts loaded to the brink with sugar cane, monkeys, insane bus drivers, dogs, cows, bicyclists, bad road conditions... and you have yourself an Indian road trip. Truthfully, I am sensationalizing a bit but the riding a motorcycle on Indian roads is not for the faint of heart.

I arrived in Delhi from a marvelous paragliding trip to Nepal with the intention of jumping on the Enfield and riding to the other end of Rajasthan, far into the Thar Desert. My reality was shattered when the local Enfeild dealer told me I needed a new piston for my bike. I was obviously disappointed about the potential delay and expensive bill. In the end this slight delay and 2000 rups ($50) turned into a hidden blessing, more about that later. After spending 3 nights sleeping on my pilot brother Shubang's floor (thanks Merlin and Nina) I was off. The ride from Noida (suburban Delhi) to Jaipur is about 270 km, well that is if you don't get lost trying to find your way. I finally found my way out of Delhi and onto the newly paved Delhi-Jaipur Road. It was essentially smooth sailing the whole way. I say essentially because there are degrees of smooth sailing that you can experience, this was the Indian version of smooth sailing. Still plenty of dirt, crazy towns, animals and the like.

Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan. A city filled with a rich history that dates back hundreds of years. It was the stronghold of many Maharajas, this is evident from the many forts, walled cities and heavily guarded palaces spread throughout the city. I am not much of a history buff but it was very interesting exploring the old forts and palaces. It is amazing all of these fortifications were built to keep a few noble men and women safe. Impressive to say the least.

Enfield on the sweetest road I rode (:p) this whole trip. On top of a mesa beween Tiger Fort and Amber Fort.

Self Portrait- Amber Fort, overlooking Amber Palace and town

Originally my plan was to ride deep into the desert to a place called Jaislmer. It would have been amazing to see all of the history and amazing towns along the way. However, the time I lost in Delhi did not allow me to make it that far. I still had a few days to spare so I thought I would swing by Agra and see the famous Taj Mahal on my way home. I know what you are thinking, awww so cliche the Taj. Every tourist sees the Taj when in India. When you visit certain places you have to see certain things; when you do to Rome you have to see the Colosseum, when you go to Greece you have to see the Parthenon, when you go to NYC you have to see the Statue of Liberty, well guess what when you go to India you have to see the Taj. On top of this because I am an Indian tax payer I pay the Indian price, a deal at 20 rupees ($.50). I went with a friend from England, guess how much she paid, 750 rups, just short of $20. Not a bad deal huh? Anyway, so me and thousands of my closest friends got to see the Taj Mahal that day. It is truthfully quite stunning. An amazing display of one man's love for his departed wife.

There it is, picture don't come close

The rest of the trip was a two day ride back to Mussoorie. Reasonably uneventful by Indian standards. A weird thing happened as I near Dehra Dun. I was riding over the Sawalik Mountain Range, a small range of hills on the opposite end of the valley from Mussoorie. As I crested the hill and started down into the Doon Valley I noticed a few things that made me slow down and smile. It was like I was in a different place. The air was noticeably cleaner, the road had gotten nice, the light filtering through the towering stand of pine trees had a warm welcoming glow to it; it made me smile deeply. I was home, I could see Mussoorie across the valley way up in the hills, an hour later I rolled into my house. I had survived.

More about this blessing in disguise. All told I had ridden the bike about 1500 km on whats called the Golden Triangle (Delhi, Jaipur, Agra). My intentions were to ride significantly farther into Rajasthan, almost doubling that figure. By the time I had arrived home after the 1500 km, I was dirty, tired, sick, dehydrated, brain fried from a constant state of alertness on the road... If I had to double that amount of riding in only a few more days, I would have been a shell of a man. So, while I did not get to see some of the amazing sight I wanted to, I saved my sanity and health by taking the abbreviated route. The rest of it will have to wait until next time, hopefully with a riding partner, it would make it much more enjoyable to have someone to ride with.

Pictures to come, having technical difficulties with my computer at the moment, patience please. Oh yea, don't forget!! I love when you leave comments!!

Happy New Years - Back in Katmandu-Updated

Hello all, sorry for the lack of posts and pictures. The Internet in Pokhara was painfully slow, it was all I could do to check my mail and send out a few. I am back in Katmandu after 2.5 weeks of wonderful times flying in Pokhara. I fly to India tomorrow afternoon to a whole new setting, he sands of the Thar Desert. I am not sure I am ready to return to the chaos and dirt of India after my peaceful lakeside stay in Nepal. I will miss Nepal, it is an amazing place. I will return someday, hopefully with someone special to share it with next time. The people, places, sights, sounds and smells are hard to describe in words. I will try to sign on tomorrow and post a few picts of my trip, the net in Katmandu is much faster.

Driving into Pokhara was almost worth the 5 hour bumpy busride from Katmandu. For the last 20 km you drive straight at the amazing Annapurna Range. Numerous 25,000'+ snowcapped peaks, the most impressive is Machhupuchare, a Matterhorn like peak standing directly in the middle.

Awful picture from the bus windsheild of the Annapurna Range. I promise, the view was amazing.

My actual arrival in Pokhara was about how I expected it. After fighting through the crowd of touts, cabbies and hotel reps trying to get my business. I made my way to Lakeside (Where all of the paraglider pilots hangout) to see the one person, my friend Anita, I knew in town landing by the lake LZ. I hung out with Anita and Alex for a while then got introduced to the crew I would be hanging out with for the next 2.5 weeks. A bunch of great people/pilots from the UK, Spain, Australia, Iceland, France, Czech Rep. you name it. For the next 2.5 weeks it was like the movie Groundhogs Day wake up, eat breakfast, fly a few times, relax, eat dinner and drink beer, repeat. Not a bad vacation. Flying conditions were not all that great but it was still a good time. On New Years Eve we took a short trek up a near by 3200 meter peak and flew off New Years morning. It was a great way to ring in the New Year. It was a pretty spontaneous mission where about 9 of us just decided to head up there. It was one of those trips that just totally fell into place and turned out perfectly. We hired 3 taxis to take us as far as they could before the road went to shit. We then hopped into a jeep for the rest of the ride. The jeep took us as far as the village of Machhupuchare, it just so happened they were having a small festival in this village and our arrival was perfectly timed for dinner. We arrived in the city center like celebrties, everyone shaking our hands and asking our names. They had a special welcoming ceremony for us and everything. After dinner, drinks of the local hooch, dancing and other party favors we retired to the villagers homes to spend the night. In the morning Machhupuchare peak(a.k.a the Fishtail, which the village takes it's name from) was beautifully illuminated in the morning light. We began our trek early, with hired porters from the village. The hike was challenging but not too bad, the end result and our campsite was well worth the hike. Most of us soared for a while up top before heading out on glide to look for something better. One of our party reached 6100 meters ( about 20,000') ridge soaring the face of Machhupuchare. In case you didn't know that is huge.
Relaxing after the trek on top of Kourchon

There are 25,000' mountains under those clouds I promise

Here are some more pics from Nepal

Sunset on Annapurna V and Machhupuchare from evening camp New Years Eve

Alex hiking to Blue Sky launch

Katmandu temple in the early morning light

Main stupa at the Monkey Temple, Katmandu

I LOVE NEPAL!!!!

When you travel, some destinations just seem right. Something about the place makes you happy, or at home. Nepal is that way. Nepal is a beautiful country filled with beautiful, smiling people. I am enjoying myself immensely here. Had 2 great paragliding flights yesterday in an amazing settnig. The mountains here are huge, pictures don't describe them.
The motorcycle ride to Delhi was less than fun. Dirty, dusty, a bit scary, uncomfortable, but pretty uneventful. I arrived at a friends house in time for lunch. So I survived the ride.
I will write more soon. With pictures I hope.

Before I sign off I would like to wish everyone the warmest holiday greetings. I wish I was there with you, sitting by a fire, enjoying some great Christmas cheer. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from Nepal.

This is the end my friends...

One week from tomorrow I will be officially done and free for almost 5 weeks. I can't begin to express how badly I need a vacation away from this hillside. It is hard to put my finger on one specific reason, it is a multitude of things. Regardless it will be magical when I finally roll down the hill.

Here is a picture of my 10th grade class taking there exam in Parker Hall

We are right in the middle of exam week, with my last exam on Tuesday. Then a few days of B.S. stuff and the students leave Friday morning. I have the weekend to prepare for my trip. Then a final meeting on Monday and I am gone. Where you ask???? Let me tell you.

Monday afternoon my bike will be loaded with paraglider and my gear for a 5 week trip. First, I ride to Delhi, via Saharanpur. Tuesday I will finish the ride and kick it in Delhi with some buddies. Wednesday the 19th I hop a plane for 2.5 weeks of paragliding in Nepal. Arrive in Katmandu and head the next day to a town called Pokhara. Pokhara is the second largest city in Nepal and the site of one of the best paragliding spots on the globe this time of year. Consistent, good conditions almost everyday. It is also the starting point for the treks of the Annapurna region of Neapl. The backdrop to my daily flights will be the snow clad peaks of the Anapurna Range, numerous 20,000'+ peaks. I am excited to get my knees in the breeze again. It will go a very long way in clearing my head of the cobwebs from 5 months of hard work and relative stagnation from this past semester. I plan on flying and far and/or long as I can everyday. I hope to do some serious flying, I will fill you in as soon as I can. I plan on spending a few days in Katmandu at the end of my trip. Here are a few pics I stole form some guys flicker account. Thanks who ever took these pictures!

Upon my return to India in early January I will pick up my bike from a friends house and ride out into the Thar Desert. The State of Rajasthan is supposed to be a place a mysticism, romance, and beauty. The land of the Arabian Knights (or if it nights?), ancient hilltop forts, camel safaris, colors, sunsets and endless desert. I have heard great things about this place and I am excited to see it. I think the Enfield will be a great way to get around out there in the desert. It will allow me to get off the tourist trail and see some things that not many people get to see.

Hopefully, I return rejuvenated (and in one piece) ready for 4 more months of hard work. I trust that I will.

I Am Thankful!!

This time of the year we are reminded that we have many things in our lives to be thankful for. Truthfully, being thankful on Thanksgiving was a fleeting thought between gorging myself on delicious food. I have never completely realized this until recently, and I feel ashamed for this realization. I think as people of comfort and good fortune (yes, everyone of you has a comfortable and fortunate life) we forget how fortunate and blessed we truly are to live the lives we do. It is easy to forget that much of the world lives with much less comfort and fortune (not just monetary) than we do. I am not pointing fingers, I am as much to blame as anyone else. Until we take ourselves out of our comfort zone can we truly reflect on how good we have it. I self-inflicted a trip outside my comfort zone this past July when I left for India. And I can truly say, in retrospect, that I am lucky to be born Christopher Alan Gehard. This realization is two fold. First, because my life has been wonderful up to this point and I miss many things from my life in the western world. Family, friends, loved ones, the touch of a beautiful loving woman, foods; my list could go on. The band Cinderella said it best "You don't know what ya got till it's gone..." insert cheesy hair metal riff. Second, I have seen everyday how many of the inhabitants of this world live, believe me it is not comfortable from a westerners point of view. While they don't know any different, so to them it is not an especially uncomfortable life. But put a westerner in their place and 98% of the time that person would not be happy. I guess the bottom line is I am thankful for everything I have in my life, and I vow to never take it for granted again.

Now I want to lighten things up a little and tell you what I am thankful for...

Family

I have the best most loving family there is. Parents who have supported me through all of my crazy adventures, schemes and ideas. Brothers, who I look up to for their wonderful and inspiring lives. And everyone else who has touched my life in a loving way.

Friends and loved ones, old and new. I truly have some of the greatest friends in this world. You know who you are. I love you guys, without you this world would be a lonely, boring place. I miss you all!!!

My health, I have enjoyed a life mostly free of bad health (knock on wood)!

This amazing world full of wonder and all the joy it has brought me over the years.

I could continue my list all night but I have bored you long enough. Thanks for listening to me. I love you all. Have a great Thanksgiving, be thankful today, cause you have so much to be thankful for.

I WANT TURKEY!!!

Not much fun, new or interesting been going on lately. We are all just trying to get the semester wrapped up, in less than 4 weeks I will be done for the semester and off on another amazing adventure, you have to stay tuned to find out what that adventure is. Anyway, I will try to squeeze out a half way interesting blog. I don't want to lose my wonderful audience. Without you guys I would be sad! So lets hear some more comments, show me some love!!

Happy Holidays to my friends and family in the U.S. I envy you, do you know that. For many reasons actually, but today I envy you because in 4 days you will be consuming all the delightful culinary treasures that come with the celebration of Thanksgiving. Lucky Dogs!!!! Obviously Thanksgiving is not celebrated in India, however, I work with enough people from the U.S. who might like to partake is a Thanksgiving celebration. Except, I think Turkey is hard if not impossible to come by here in India, I guess chicken will have to do. Speaking of foodstuff I've been missing. As an avid carnivore, 4 months without a morsel of beef leaves one with cravings. Obviously beef is impossible to get in this part of India, cows are sacred and all. However, there is a beef substitute that is fair game in this part of India, water buffalo!!I bought myself 2 kg of buffalo meat yesterday. I proceeded to make myself a pot roast, came out alright, a bit tough but very beef like.

I love to learn new skills that can benefit me now or later in life. Because this place is boring and I have lots of free time on my hands I have been engaging in many things that I have always wanted to do or learn. Earlier this semester I learned to throw pottery (thats what they call it). You know put some clay on a wheel, spin it around and make a bowl or something. So far I have made 2 bowls, a cup and a plate. They were fired a few weeks ago, they are ugly as hell but they are mine. They looked a lot better unglazed, the glazing is the hard part.

I also just recently started doing origami. Rather than sit at my desk and surf the Internet while bored at night I needed a hobby that engaged my mind and hands. I have always thought it was so cool when someone whipped out a piece of paper and folded it into a swan or something, so I got a book form the library and started it up. I can now make a box with a lid, a butterfly, a leaf and a flower from memory, and I almost have perfected the butterfly ring. I even made a nice decorative box for a friends b-day present. Her husband said no gifts, but they bought me something nice for my b-day so I have to break the rules. How nice and practical is that, a little box with a butterfly on it. Sweet huh? I am going to make a good wife someday ;) Anyway, here are a few of my creations.

One place I feel my new skill will be very appreciated is in the small villages around here. When you visit a village the children are absolutely enthralled by these different looking people. Depending on their age they might have never even seen a white dude before. I like giving them something, they have so little so even a balloon gives them a happiness that is so pure and true, it is hard to explain. You just have to see their eyes, then you would know what I am talking about. But this new found skill gives me the ability to create something right in front of them that they will love and appreciate. I can't wait to see their reactions as I create a butterfly, or flower for them.

Hope everyone is well!!! Eat some turkey for me.

Diwali - Festival of Light (ers)

Diwali is a festival of great importance in India. It could be compared to Christmas in the western world; and like Christmas it holds religious, cultural and social importance. In a general sense Diwali is a celebration of good over evil and light over darkness. Also, Diwali is a celebration to give thanks for an abundant autumn harvest and the gracious nature of various gods and goddesses. It started in the North Indian kingdom of Avadha to celebrate the last day of Lord Rama's long exile of fourteen years. As the citizens of Ayodhya eagerly awaited their beloved prince's return, they lit thousands of lamps to guide his flying vimana to their city. The tradition of lighting lamps continues and nearly every resident of our hillside town have beautiful clay oil lamps lit in front of their homes and businesses. It gives the town a beautiful warm glow.
Diwali also celebrates the gracious nature of the three goddesses, Lakshmi, Kali and Saraswati. Dhanteras (two days before Diwali) is dedicated to Lakshmi, whose blessings are essential for a prosperous, fruitful and peaceful life. Kali-Chudash (the day before Diwali) is dedicated to Maha Kali whose strength we seek to maintain the wealth we have. Strength, physical, mental and spiritual, is essential for all of us to lead a happy life. Diwali itself is dedicated to goddess Saraswati. Knowledge is the ultimate wealth, for it cannot be stolen from you; it is also the ultimate strength, for it often defeats brute force.

My boys back home are going to love this! Diwali is also a festival of gambling. On Diwali many men gamble. The reasons for this are as important religiously as they are socially. It is said that in playing cards, the goddess of wealth smiles upon the player and ensures her goodwill. A popular saying states that one who does not gamble on this day will be reborn as a donkey in his next birth. Sounds like a good enough reason to me to play a little hold em'.

We went out for the smaller of the Diwali celebrations last night and the town was hopping. Some fireworks, but it was just a warm up for tonight. They say the fireworks display that can be witnessed on the larger of the Diwali celebrations rivals anything you see in the states. Our vantage point on top of the hillside gives us a view of many kilometers around, I look forward to the show. I bought a few fireworks myself, my favorite are those snapper things you throw on the ground and they make a little bang. Except they are not those little wimpy ones like back home. You can buy them here as large as a golf ball. They make a HUGE bang, but they also make you a bit nervous carrying them around in your hand.

No grand festival is complete without fireworks and some drunken debauchery, I expect nothing less from tonight's festivities. Tonight is the big night, we're going into town to check it out till about 8ish then going up to a big party in Sister’s Bazaar, should be fun. Full report with pictures by the end of the weekend.

Part Two-

Not much new to report. I went into town a tad late and most people were at home with their families doing the Puja. So I decided to go see the fireworks show that the senoirs were doing at the dorms. All I have to say is that I am glad I had my riding goggles. It was the craziest redneck fireworks display I have ever seen. It was mayhem, we are lucky that no one got their eyes put out. There was rockets shooting into the crowd, multi-shot mortar round boxes falling over on their sides and shooting into the crowd. All this and no one was wearing saftey goggles. They had 20,000 rupees worth of fireworks, over $500. You can imagine how many fireworks that will buy in India. Boxes upon boxes.

Also, I forgot to bring my camera. So no pictures. I know blog posts are boring without pictures. I will do better next time.